These are pics and stories to Before the Fall, Chapter 2 of Hollie McKay's and my photobook on Afghanistan. Hollie's writing is in the book and this substack is my account and story behind the images.
We were in contact with Abdul Dostum's spokesman and he said he would be willing to give an interview and take us to the frontline. His hometown of Sheberghan was taken over by the Taliban. His pink palace was being looted. Talibs paraded in his uniform and showed of his things.
He had left his son in charge of the Uzbek militia and they had retreated. But they were gathering more men to push. Hollie and I took it as an opportunity to get to the battlefield. See the militias at work. Seeing that the Afghan army was unable to fight on so many fronts, Afghans volunteered with the old warlords.
They usually joined by ethnicity lines. The Uzbeks followed Abdul Dostum and the Hazaras and Shias followed Muhammad Atta. The carried AK47 and were prepared to fight for the city.
Mazar E Sharif is a beautiful city. The Shrine of Hazrat Ali, also known as the Blue Mosque, is a mosque located in the heart of Mazar-i-Sharif, Afghanistan. It is one of the reputed burial places of Ali ibn Abi Talib, cousin and son-in law of Prophet Muhammad. It is the first thing you notice when you get to the city.
We reached the Burj Ghazanfar Hotel by the corner of the shrine. We didn't need a fixer or translator because we would be meet Dostum's spokesman who spoke excellent English. I could organise speaking in Dari when it came to directions in a cab. It was only going to be a few days and so I brought few clothes and all my camera gear.
As Australian laws are quite strict on owning body armour, mine being left in Istanbul with friends, we borrowed from Tolo television. Tolo Television was the largest commercial television station in Afghanistan. I originally worked there when I first came to work on the Extreme Tourist Afghanistan tv series. They were so glad to help us.
We were being delayed from meeting the spokesman so we took to the streets finding delicious kebabs which Mazar is so famous for. We ate like kings though Hollie was more about the Afghan yoghurt.
I photographed the people on the streets. It was lit by neon lights and little gas lanterns which emanated the busy activity of street vendors. I generally felt quite safe in Mazar and didn't feel like we needed protection or anything.
The ice cream maker pushed and pressed the ice cream against the ice blocks turning them and keeping them smooth and creamy. I took one scoop and ate it as I merrily went down the street enjoying the warm night life.
Afghans in Mazar are quite hospitable and friend always wanting to say hi and greet you like a guest. Often they want to offer you a meal for free.
Most civilians were worried about the Taliban gains but were hopeful that the Army and militias would be able to fight back and win.
Hollie wanted shisha and we tried to find a shisha bar, usually they can be found at pool dens. I actually didn't know the word for shisha. Turns out its "Nagili" like the Turkish word for it. Hollie kept asking for "Shish shish" which turns out to be meth. Thankfully the manager got it and brought us an apple one.
We worked out our plans for the upcoming day and tried to contact the special forces commander. Wandering around I got the photo of the man selling balloons on the street. Sure there is a metaphor in there.